Steve Skinner discusses the features of the Dominion Grimm Ecovap electric evaporator. (Charles Summers photo)
BEAUCE, QUEBEC — In the year of our Lord, 2025, it’s safe to say that agriculture is a thoroughly globalized industry. Here in Ontario, which despite the lack of provincial and federal support, remains an agricultural powerhouse. Yet, most of what we rely on to farm comes from across borders far and wide. The Dutch make our robot milkers, our fertilizer comes from Russia, and precious little of our equipment is still made in Canada. Even the research and genetics we rely on are largely of foreign origin.
There’s not much we can point to when it comes to a true “Made-in-Canada” agricultural economy. The notable exception comes from the niche market of maple syrup production. In this case, all of the inputs, equipment and material are almost entirely manufactured right here in the Great White North, and more specifically, Quebec.
Dominating maple syrup production (producing over 70 % of North America’s total output), the industry in Quebec is comprised of not only tens of thousands of producers, but a myriad of small and large businesses producing the various steel, plastic and electronic components that make a maple farm work. Not only that, La Belle Province also leads the way in research and development in the trade, as well as global marketing. It’s a booming business as both domestic and international markets cry out for more syrup, and the industry continues to reinvent itself as it quickly develops into a world class example of self-sufficiency and innovation.
So how does one learn about the latest and greatest things happening in maple production? The answer is as simple as an open door: the industry in Quebec has a long-standing tradition, inviting the public to annually judge and inspect their progress at Portes Ouvertes (Open House).
Pruno rep shows off hand tools.
Every May long weekend, Quebec maple equipment manufacturers set out lavish displays of their ware for producers to gather and witness their progress over the calendar year: you also get a free hotdog and Pepsi. As someone who oddly finds himself dealing in this stuff, I was compelled to go to my first Open House four years ago at the headquarters of the company I deal for, LS Bilodeau, out of the Beauce.
The first time ‘round, I thought I was going to see a boring lecture or powerpoint on the latest the company had to offer. Instead, I discovered I was heading into a high-stakes sales event, coupled with sophisticated information sharing and collaboration (and some heavy drinking and karaoke). I found my first trip overwhelming, and by my fourth, I remain unnumbed: deeply stimulated by the depth and breadth of knowledge I get exposed to, and deeply moved by the passion which drives the industry (although I stayed relatively sober and did not sing this year).
Going from a relatively obscure cottage folkway to an internationally desired luxury product makes maple production one of the last frontiers in agriculture. As sure as John Deere perfected the modern plow from the inspiration he drew after he dropped a saw blade on the floor in 1837, many bright minds are drawing from broad disciplines and applying themselves to developing the next big advancement in modern syrup production.
Erabec president Marc-Antoine Bouchard displays his company’s affordable wireless monitoring unit.
Marc-Antoine Bouchard is one half of the latest in sugarbush monitoring. “What the heck is sugarbush monitoring?” you might ask. Fair enough: in the same way farmers are using computers to perfect rations, guide their tractors and record yields, maple producers are relying on modern tech to manage everything from their reverse osmosis units to remote pumping stations. In this particular case, Marc-Antoine’s company Erabec is breaking new ground in affordable, extensive wireless units that can tell you the exact vacuum levels at the end of every lateral line in your sugarbush. Incredibly affordable — they’re actually giving away units at the Dominion Grimm open house — the company is clearly onto something.
“I think you might put all of the competition out of business with this!” I remark as I stand in awe at their professional and comprehensive display. “Maybe!” the engineer-trained Marc-Antoine grins.
At only 32 years of age, Bouchard’s company is already 8 years old. He’s been making a full-time living at it for two years now. They have over 25,000 units deployed in the bushes of Quebec.
“I think you might even get rich, my friend!” I laugh as I slap Bouchard on the back. “MAYBE!” and Marc-Antoine’s grin only grows wider.
The spirit of entrepreneurship is alive and well in the Quebec maple industry. Now the first thing anyone will mention when you talk about the prowess of agriculture in Quebec to any Ontario farmer is a quick remark that “yeah, well, Quebec farmers have it easy — they get so many subsidies…”. And it’s not long before you hear quips like “farming the mailbox,”, or “welfare farmers.”
Bilodeau reps go over sales numbers.
For better or worse, it’s true: Ontario farmers don’t get much in the way of support compared to their counterparts across the Ottawa River (or south of the Great Lakes). But mind you: there’s no shortage of government money being thrown around here in Ontario. Perhaps instead of criticizing the Quebecois, we should stop re-electing politicians who underwrite multinationals with billions of dollars, promising things like battery factories or electric vehicle plants. Which, of course, never materialize, but exist long enough to disburse funds, before being shelved, without ever breaking ground, let alone providing any jobs. Perhaps we could invest some of that money in our countryside instead…
The subvention (grant) is not an insignificant part of farming or the maple industry in Quebec. It’s how they organize their society to ensure a robust self-reliance. The concept of Maitres Chez Nous (masters of our own house) has led the province to invest heavily in the primary industries which are not only the foundation of an economy, but civilization itself.
I was chatting with one of my colleagues at Bilodeau: with a few hundred acres of rugged land deep in the mountainous heart of southern Quebec, he has over half a dozen mills within 100 km ready and willing to buy truckloads of wood from his forests: pulp, biomass and sawlogs all have eager markets. In Ontario, where can you take your forest products?
And so, even with a supportive government and a culture that values a connection to the land as a source of purpose and dignity, you still have to be a bit of a madman if you think you’re going to strike gold by designing the next great spile or evaporator. So, the manufacturers fight for their market. This is what I love so much about the Open House: it’s a textbook case in competitive capitalism that benefits the consumer and advances the industry, demanding excellence from all involved.
Charles at the Open House in Beauce, QC
By the long weekend in May, producers have received their first cheque from the syndicate and the season behind them is still fresh in their mind. They’ve got money in their pocket and a wish list. The manufacturer’s offer significant discounts, and buyers will roam from exposition-to-exposition shopping for the best deal. Hotdog after hotdog, Pepsi after Pepsi: after head-to-head combat, by Saturday night the dealers had done millions in business, and the tradition becomes further entrenched in the culture of maple.
Given the public support and sheer momentum of the industry, it’s pretty hard for other jurisdictions to compete in the maple equipment game. The only significant American player left on the field of battle, 130-years-old Leader company, was purchased in 2022 by H2O Innovations: a publicly traded water treatment company that also has a strong presence in the equipment trade. And yes, although they’re listed on the Toronto Stock Exchange, of course, they operate out of Quebec.
With the rapid expansion and modernization of the maple industry, there are seemingly endless opportunities for both producers and the industry which supports them. Albeit the rolled stainless and microchips are still coming from China and Taiwan, the industry is as close to “Made-in-Canada” as you can get in this day and age.
If you’re a syrup producer, or even just curious about the business, I recommend you sneak out to southern Quebec and check out 2026’s Portes Ouvertes: the scope and energy of the industry will inspire you.
Charles Summers owns Salt of the Earth Farm, a direct-to-consumer operation selling vegetables at the roadside, near Lyndhurst, Ontario.
